The business partners behind Dede at the Customs House in Baltimore in west Cork say mutual respect has been the key to their success - and they’re not stopping yet
“So sorry,” reads the message from the photographer who’s on her way to meet me at Dede in Baltimore in Co Cork, but who’s running a little late. “The traffic is mental, tractors and Dubliners.”
“I have great respect for Maria,” says Dede. “She is really hardworking, and has been so successful in her career. I don’t think this place could work if we weren’t on the same page in terms of the effort we are putting in. But we have a very similar work ethic, and that is the key.” “I’ve had a holiday home here for decades, and I’ve always loved it. Even when I lived abroad, it was a home from home,” says Archer, who grew up in Dalkey in south co Dublin.
She was introduced to Dede by a mutual friend who had worked closely with him at Mews, the restaurant in Baltimore where he had won a Michelin star in 2018, and he agreed to let her spend some time in his kitchen. “It was the first time I’d cooked Turkish food in Baltimore, and the reaction was brilliant. I still didn’t know what I was going to do - go to Turkey for a while maybe, or take another job - but once night over dinner, Maria and Shane asked me if I would consider staying in Baltimore,” he says.
Like many high-end chefs during that time, Dede began cooking bespoke takeaway meals, not just to bring in some cash, but also to keep himself busy. One of the few upsides was that they didn’t have to worry about Michelin. “We didn’t think about it at all,” Archer says. “It was all about keeping safe, making sure our families were safe, and trying to keep going.”
“It was really special,” he says. “It felt like it was meant to be, with my mum and dad there beside me.”
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