Review: This new seafood restaurant is simplicity at its best
Hawksmoor review: This steakhouse is a serious addition to Dublin - top-notch food in a spectacular setting
Mullan’s brother was called upon to make furniture, put up shelves and transform the space into a simple but smart restaurant. An understanding landlady held off on charging rent until they got on their feet. The doors opened at the beginning of June. Walkers and holidaymakers are sitting at the outdoor picnic tables, and there is a buzz from the small bright room inside. A few plants, a vase of pretty flowers and cookbooks, including Ottolenghi’s Jerusalem and Nisha Katona’s Mowgli Street Food, add accents of colour to the white room; the back windows look out on to Cleggan pier.
The buffalo prawns are steaming hot inside a crunchy batter, glazed in a hot sauce that will have fans of Ireland’s most famous chicken wings licking their fingers. But it is home-fermented, not from a bottle of Frank’s, and a sprinkling of chopped coriander and scallion add to the flavour. Pickled onion aioli is delicious with the prawns and crispy hand-cut chips.
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