‘I felt a bit emotional. This truly was the end. The final ride of this adventure’

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‘I felt a bit emotional. This truly was the end. The final ride of this adventure’
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‘I felt a bit emotional. This truly was the end. The final ride of this adventure’ via IrishTimesLife

I pull over to the left side of the road and start fumbling urgently for my phone to take pictures as Mr Grizzly moves along the right side, where the vehicles are and where another one has joined the queue behind me. I can see people in the cars are sort of freaking out and the bear apparently tried to open one of the car doors, grabbling the handle in his mouth.

The roadworks end, the pilot car pulls over and I’m through – elated not to have fallen over.I feel now I really can do this, I am up to the challenge. I feel great and the sense of Wow! is reinforced when I reach Yukon Crossing, an early staging post 224km out from Fairbanks, where the Dalton crosses the mighty river and it really is mighty here - enormously wide, a couple of hundred meters I’d say, and starting to enter its old man stage as it moves towards the Bering Sea.

At Coldfoot, 414km from Fairbanks , there’s petrol and coffee, and food if wanted. I ask the girl behind the counter how long to Deadhorse? “Five to 12 hours,” she says, “depending how fast you go.” It was coming up to midday and so I reckoned I could do it in seven or eight hours – lots of time, especially with 24-hour daylight. And this part of the journey proves to be the most magical, the most breathtaking, jaw-dropping part of the whole Dalton. The scenery is just incredible.

“On the right,” says Jack, the guide and bus driver on our oilfield tour, “caribou”. And there, strolling between huge lumps of frontier industry, are half a dozen of the beautiful reindeers, most of them with impressive antlers. An arctic fox, with his dark summer coat on, appears bounding across the tundra. “He’ll be looking for birds eggs,” says Jack. “On the left, a Brent goose – now, he’s quite rare – those over there are cackling geese.

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