Alfama review: The food at this neighbourhood restaurant is delicious, sensibly priced and cooked from the heart

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Alfama review: The food at this neighbourhood restaurant is delicious, sensibly priced and cooked from the heart
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Alfama review: The food at this neighbourhood restaurant is delicious, sensibly priced and cooked from the heart, via IrishTimesFood

The francesinha, a juggernaut of a sandwich, at Alfama. Photograph: Alan Betson

The pastéis de bacalhau , three salt cod croquettas, are the perfect starter to share. Deliciously hot, the crunchy exterior yields to a fluffy filling of flaked bacalhau mixed with onion, garlic and herbs and just the right amount of mashed potato. With a squeeze of lemon, a bit of salsa and a few olives, it’s a lovely bite to have with a glass of wine.

His gravy is made from a number of stocks: vegetable, chicken, beef and shrimp, and it has been reduced twice, with Port, whiskey and two cans of beer involved. I’m sure there is more that I can’t recall. If you want to enjoy the unbridled pleasure of this dish, those chips must be immersed in the gravy. Francesinha, I learn, in what I’m sure is sound advice, is perfect as a hangover cure, or for lining your stomach before you go out.

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